UKC

Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

 

An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site. 

20m.

Rockfax Description
Some good well-protected moves make this a popular method of reaching the two harder pitches higher up. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
evrobbo 15 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Short and sweet
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Short and sweet

Logged Ascents

71 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 8 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sara's Wall

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

Loading Notifications...