UKC

Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
Good open climbing. Pull over the roof and make an awkward traverse left. Climb the blank wall then move back right via an undercut to an easier finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Anchovy Madonna

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Pen Trwyn)

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