Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.
No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.
All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted.
Dates: 25 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June.
An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site.
Rockfax Description
A good technical right-hand finish to Firefly. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Andy Moles | 16 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Thought the crux felt sharp and nasty for 7a with the broken crimp. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Thought the crux felt sharp and nasty for 7a with the broken crimp. |
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BC | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Anyone trying this route now will find that one of the important holds has broken off. What is left behind now is a smaller and more painful crimp to hold. Unsure if this has affected the difficulties or grade of the route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Anyone trying this route now will find that one of the important holds has broken off. What is left behind now is a smaller and more painful crimp to hold. Unsure if this has affected the difficulties or grade of the route. |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Lighthouse Crags)