UKC

Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Climbing is not allowed before 6pm on any of the routes above the Marine Drive, from and including Mayfair Wall during any Bank Holiday weekends and summer holiday times.

No climbing before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
The direct line has more bolts but is even bolder. Above the second bolt, climb a blind flake to slightly easier ground. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 3
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scary Canary

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Pen Trwyn)

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