Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Climbing is not allowed before 6pm on any of the routes above the Marine Drive, from and including Mayfair Wall during any Bank Holiday weekends and summer holiday times.

No climbing before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 


Rockfax Description
An exhilarating climb that builds to an exposed finale on the headwall. From below the crack on Oyster make some wild moves rightwards into a hanging groove. Climb this then trend right to the lower-off. © Rockfax


The Orme 7a+'s , North Wales Rock Graded List , Classic UK F7s , Rock cats getting strong


User Date Notes
Jen333 7 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 28 users have this on their wishlist

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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sara's Wall

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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