UKC

31m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the great challenges of the crag. Most climbers do the route in one pitch, by climbing the first pitch, clipping in, pulling the rope through to reduce rope drag, and then continuing. Start below a large flake corner.
1) 6a. Climb up to a bolt and make a hard move to good holds directly above. Move up and slightly left to clip bolts on Harry the Clamp. Step right, crossing the corner on huge but friable holds and up to a double-bolt belay.
2) 6b. Traverse right past two bolts via a hard and blind move to a scoop and a good rest. Pull leftwards out of the scoop to gain a huge pocket. Climb thoughtfully up the headwall to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , ... And One For The Crow

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nick Bullock 21 Jun Show βeta
βeta: 21/6/24***WARNING!*** There is a bird nesting in the pocket that is used to access the upper wall after the cave/rest/last bolt. Not sure what the bird is, but it has eggs. Please avoid for several weeks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 21/6/24***WARNING!*** There is a bird nesting in the pocket that is used to access the upper wall after the cave/rest/last bolt. Not sure what the bird is, but it has eggs. Please avoid for several weeks.

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Voting
High E7
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 8
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Plas Berw - No Plas Like Home - Zippy Chicken Finish

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Castell y Gwynt)

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