Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.
Climbing is not allowed before 6pm on any of the routes above the Marine Drive, from and including Mayfair Wall during any Bank Holiday weekends and summer holiday times.
No climbing before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.
All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted.
Dates: 25 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June.
One of the great challenges of the crag. Most climbers do the route in one pitch, by climbing the first pitch, clipping in, pulling the rope through to reduce rope drag, and then continuing. Start below a large flake corner.
1) 6a. Climb up to a bolt and make a hard move to good holds directly above. Move up and slightly left to clip bolts on Harry the Clamp. Step right, crossing the corner on huge but friable holds and up to a double-bolt belay.
2) 6b. Traverse right past two bolts via a hard and blind move to a scoop and a good rest. Pull leftwards out of the scoop to gain a huge pocket. Climb thoughtfully up the headwall to the top. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , ... And One For The Crow
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