UKC

Restricted Access

Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru. 

Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see. 

Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July. 

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Last update: 17/06/2025  

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Great climbing. Start as for Stringfellow's, then move up the borehole. Difficult moves up the central slab lead to a tricky finish up the rib.

Ticklists

North Wales Limestone 7a to 7b

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Logged Ascents

7 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaen Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
North Wales Climbs Cover
North Wales Climbs (2023)
Rockfax
By Mark Reeves, Mark Glaister
North Wales Limestone Cover
North Wales Limestone (2023)
On Sight Publishing
By Andy Boorman & Ian Carr
A55 Sport Climbs Cover
A55 Sport Climbs (2019)
Pesda Press Ltd
By Michael Doyle
Guidebook correction for this climb
6 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Primeval

Grade: 7a S1 ***
(Crinkle Crag Area)

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