Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Right of I'll Be Back. Awkward start and difficult moves up the flake lead to a great move up the borehole to finish. Graded F6c by the first ascensionist, its a bit harder - some holds have been shed, which may explain the discrepancy.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mick | 11 May |
Show βeta
βeta: This route is on Stringfellow's wall not Rainbow wall. Stringfellow's is a further 100m down the Trench or a better option walk 100m down the meadow before descending into the trench. This also applies to “The Comeback”, “One False Move” and “I’ll be Back". These should all have a seperate section titled "Stringfellow's Wall". On another note "Under a Red Sun" likes to shed holds on the flake! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This route is on Stringfellow's wall not Rainbow wall. Stringfellow's is a further 100m down the Trench or a better option walk 100m down the meadow before descending into the trench. This also applies to “The Comeback”, “One False Move” and “I’ll be Back". These should all have a seperate section titled "Stringfellow's Wall". On another note "Under a Red Sun" likes to shed holds on the flake! |
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Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
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Route of Interest
When the Lion Feeds
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)