Rockfax Description
E3. A massive mountaineering classic which takes in some incredible rock at a reasonable grade. It follows a long sweeping diagonal line through the series of huge honeycomb caves high on the wall. Take a small rack of gear including some foot slings for the aid pitch. Some of the fixed gear is old but there are some new bolts and all the belays are new and equipped for abseil. Start below a diagonal crack.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the crack up rightwards then move onto a flake which comes back left. Make a tricky move out right, past a bolt, to a sloping stance.
2) 5+, 15m. The groove above is awkward.
3) A0/5+, 40m. Climb up a groove, then move right onto the wall. Head up here towards a diagonal crack. Aid along this (free at 7b+), then climb up to a stance in the base of the huge caves.
4) 4, 35m. Climb to the top-left corner of the cave and pull round into a large bay. Scramble left and make exposed moves on a short rib around to another cave system and bolt belay.
5) 3+, 40m. Scramble leftwards to a belay on the edge of a cave.
6) 5+, 40m. Climb up flakes to the foot of a groove (possible belay). Follow the corner, then make tricky moves into the crack above. This leads to a stance below a chimney.
7) 6b, 40m. Squirm up the chimney and the grooves above until you are forced right onto a ramp and an exposed belay.
8) 6b, 40m. Climb up into a corner and follow this to a bulge. Move around this on undercuts and follow a corner above to easier ground, bolt belay. Scramble 10m to the top from here (alternative bolt belay). © Rockfax

FA. Miguel Cano, Migeul G?mez 1970s 1975.

Ticklists

Costa blanca 2022 , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics

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