UKC

Rockfax Description
A wonderful route tracing a sustained path up the Great Wall on immaculate rock. Take lots of small wires. Start 5m right of Eroica at a short steep slab beneath a thin crack system.

1) 6a, 46m. Step onto the slab and move up left to the thin cracks. Climb the thin crack system to two short right-leaning cracks. Move up the wall rightwards past a white quartz patch and enter the slim left-facing corner above. Follow the corner to a tricky exit onto easier-angled rock. Work up the slabby, lichen-splashed wall to a stance beneath a leaning corner.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner and steep flake to an easier exit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Very good routes in the UK , West Country Climbs , Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK , Ultimate E5 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , South West in Extremis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Wil Treasure 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: No pegs, gear in the top half is spaced but good, take lots of RPs/small nuts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No pegs, gear in the top half is spaced but good, take lots of RPs/small nuts.
Eduardo Martinez 19 Aug, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: No pegs now but adequately protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No pegs now but adequately protected.

Logged Ascents

74 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Pentire Point

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 52 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 22
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grand Plage (pre-rockfall)

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Carn Barra)

Loading Notifications...