100m, 2 pitches.
III, WI4
The right one of the two big falls of "Gias Della Buffa".
P1. Climb from the left initially easy then steepening ice between bulges, heading to an ice ledge aside the main coloumn. The lenght of this pitch varies with the conditions, it can be much shorter if the snow cover is too deep. (50m, WI2/3).
P2. Traverse toward the center to tackel the difficulties. The coloumn is harder on the right (a snowy goulotte is possible too on the extreme right). Then on easier terrain reach the final goulotte which leads to the fields above the falls (45m, WI4, anchor on pitons and cordelette).
Descent: abseil on the route.
The right one of the two big falls of "Gias Della Buffa".
P1. Climb from the left initially easy then steepening ice between bulges, heading to an ice ledge aside the main coloumn. The lenght of this pitch varies with the conditions, it can be much shorter if the snow cover is too deep. (50m, WI2/3).
P2. Traverse toward the center to tackel the difficulties. The coloumn is harder on the right (a snowy goulotte is possible too on the extreme right). Then on easier terrain reach the final goulotte which leads to the fields above the falls (45m, WI4, anchor on pitons and cordelette).
Descent: abseil on the route.
Gian Carlo Grassi, Martino Lang 25/Nov/1981.
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