120m, 4 pitches.
III, WI3
Big and wide icefall with multiple options ranging from WI3 up to a sustained WI4 depending on the line chosen and the ice conditions. The left side is easier, whilst the right section is much more vertical.
Left side line (WI3/3+)
P1. From the base of the icefall on the far left (bolted anchor on the left).
P2. Similar to the previous one (bolted anchor on the left).
P3. Head to the rocky overhang at the center of the icefall (bolted anchor).
P4. Climb the final steep section on your right (bolted anchor on the left).
Right side line:
P1. Chose a line in the center/right of the icefall heading to the base of the big vertical section (60m WI3+, anchor on ice or using a bolt on the rock at the center of the base of the ice wall, often covered by ice tho).
P2. Climb the wall heading slightly to the left (60m WI4/4+, bolted anchor on the left at the finish as for the left side line).
Descent: abseil on the route. The descent by walk is not recommended.
Big and wide icefall with multiple options ranging from WI3 up to a sustained WI4 depending on the line chosen and the ice conditions. The left side is easier, whilst the right section is much more vertical.
Left side line (WI3/3+)
P1. From the base of the icefall on the far left (bolted anchor on the left).
P2. Similar to the previous one (bolted anchor on the left).
P3. Head to the rocky overhang at the center of the icefall (bolted anchor).
P4. Climb the final steep section on your right (bolted anchor on the left).
Right side line:
P1. Chose a line in the center/right of the icefall heading to the base of the big vertical section (60m WI3+, anchor on ice or using a bolt on the rock at the center of the base of the ice wall, often covered by ice tho).
P2. Climb the wall heading slightly to the left (60m WI4/4+, bolted anchor on the left at the finish as for the left side line).
Descent: abseil on the route. The descent by walk is not recommended.
Gian Carlo Grassi, Giorgio Montrucchio 30/Jan/1981.
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