Rockfax Description
(Piano Dealer Lund's Route) A bit disjointed but lots of nice climbing with comfy stances, often VERY busy with beginners and groups - check before you approach if you want a clear run at it. Start by the telegraph poles, below a left-slanting corner.
1) N4, 35m. Climb the corner, then slabs and a short steepening to a big ledge on the right.
2) N4+, 20m. Climb up cracks on the right then smear up a slab on the left to reach the right end of the hand-traverse. Pump up this to another big ledge with assorted belays.
3) N4+, 20m. Traverse right along a fault and climb through a bulge to gain a steep groove. Go up this and a short jamming crack above to a good ledge. A great pitch.
4) N4+, 10m. The Peace Mark Pitch - climb the short awkward crack (at least N5 if you can't jam) or the left-slanting flake to a big ledge system below the final tier. The short crack to the left gives an alternative (N4+) if you want to bypass the traffic jam that often forms here.
5) N4+, 20m. Climb the centre of the face to bulges, then head up and left to thin cracks for a good finale. The awkward finger and hand-crack on the left gives an alternative finish - N4+. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Popular four pitch route with easy climbing, good protection and walking descent. Not sure about the UK grade though. HS 4b
Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog, Ulf Prytz 1971.
ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes
There is no feedback for this climb.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: n4+ ***
(Svolvær)