Rockfax Description
The classic of the crag and extremely popular. Start at the toe of the buttress, near a corner that leads to nowhere.
1) 4c, 35m. Avoid the direct start via the bolt to the right of the corner - this is a very tricky start. Instead start on the left and follow a diagonal line up to the corner and cross this above the bolt of the direct start. Quickly gain the large flake and follow this to a bolt belay.
2) 4a, 25m. Carry on up the flake to a belay at its top.
3) 5a, 25m. Wind your way up the well-worn slab to belay just right of the arete.
4) 5c, 35m. Climb up the tower, using a combination of the right crack and the wall, until it is possible to gain and follow the left crack to an exposed stance.
5) 4a, 35m. Follow the well-worn continuation crack right of the large central blocky corner to another exposed stance.
6) 5a, 40m. Climb up behind the stance to gain the left-trending crack that leads to the left hand end of a roof. Move round this and up to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
-French grades.
-Description in rock fax contains typos.
P1- 4c (40m) Folow the chimney on the left, then traverse right past a bolt and up to some hanging boulders up to the belay. (Direct start is a demanding F6b)
P2- 4b (35m) follow the crack to the next belay. Easy to protect.
P3- 6a (25m) Climb onto the ledge up and left from the belay, then power up the lay back corner. Step left onto the slab (crux), and follow a couple bolts to the belay.
P4- 5b(35m) Impressive exposed wall. The braves can climb it only on the bolts, but there are plenty of cam placements to either side.
P5- 5a (40m) Climb up the crack above the belay, past an in-situ cam. Reach the next belay on a big comfy ledge.
P6- 6a (35m). Original route follows the left hand crack. A BD #4 can be useful if not feeling strong. (Alternatively go up a thin crack just right of the belay. About the same difficulty, less awkward) Then climb a bouldery section to reach a slab. Go up the slab thanking god for the rubber on your shoes til under a boulder. Place a small cam and climb the chimney awkwardly.
(French grades)
Partially equipped
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Tall Oak | 10 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bailed after P4. Only because it was dark and group ahead. Took a deour up the \'money pitch\'. But what fun. Was also a bad omen when the vultures were circling. (yikes!) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Bailed after P4. Only because it was dark and group ahead. Took a deour up the 'money pitch'. But what fun. Was also a bad omen when the vultures were circling. (yikes!) |
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