A fine series of pitches that presents a multitude of problems, all on perfect rock. The route dries very quickly and does not seep. Start at the arete on the far left of the buttress.
1) 9m. Follow the edge of the arete to a narrow ledge.
2) 8m. Take the narrow crack up the wall just to the right of the arete to a good ledge.
3) 14m. The wide crack on the right, or better, the wall just to its right, gains easier ground that is followed to another good ledge.
4) 9m. The wall above the ledge with a couple of thin cracks running up it is climbed beginning on its right.
5) 12m. The boot-wide corner-crack on the right is a bit of a struggle. Some big cams or nuts are useful for protection.
6) 8m. Follow a ramp rightwards under the headwall to a belay below the crack in the headwall.
7) 12m. The steep crack leads to easier ground and belays. Scrambling remains to the top. © Rockfax
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