A formidable line that has a wild top pitch. Start as for Megaton.
1) 4b, 22m. Follow Megaton and break right from the broad rib to gain a belay below the large corner on the right.
2) 4c, 26m. Follow a thin crack in the slab left of the corner to a belay behind a huge block on a ledge.
3) 5b, 35m. Move up to where Megaton heads left to its main crack. Take the crack above direct to easier ground that leads rightwards to a belay in a short corner (as for Megaton).
4) 5a, 22m. Gain a ledge on the right and climb the arete above on its left to an easing. Climb the wall above to a square pocket then traverse right to the arete and up to easier ground below a wide chimney-crack - 'Oppenheimer's Chimney'. Belay on a small exposed ledge on the rib to the right.
5) 5b, 23m. Place some gear in 'Oppenheimer's Chimney' and move left to the arete. Reach a jug up left and boldly climb up on good holds to a final rib and the top. © Rockfax
S J H Reid, S Stout Sep/1996.
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