One of the great early mountain climbs of the UK taking an imposing line up the middle of the buttress. The climbing is varied and on immaculate rock. Start on the top of a large block that sits next to the gully wall.
1) 17m. Move up to below a short shallow chimney. Climb this (or bypass it on cleaner rock to the left) then continue up then rightwards to a large ledge and belay.
2) 10m. Move up twin cracks and traverse left to a stance below a corner-crack.
3) 12m. Climb to the top of the corner-crack then traverse left on flat holds to a small stance and chockstone belay below a wide crack/chimney.
4) 18m. Awkward but well-protected moves up the chimney gain an easing under the wider continuation. Traverse right around an exposed rib, then climb up rightwards more easily to a belay at an airy eyrie!
5) 15m. Move up a crack rightwards to a ledge just before the broken corner. Climb the slab on the left to the top on small positive holds. © Rockfax
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