UKC

Rockfax Description
A first-rate mountain adventure. Start 4m right of the base of Bounding Buttress at a right-slanting ramp.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the ramp and wide crack above to a slab, then traverse left to a belay below a recess.
2) 4a, 40m. Climb up to a vegetated area and take a steep crack on the left to a terrace. Traverse right to a belay below a corner.
3) 4b, 25m. Climb to a vegetated ledge (often wet) then traverse left to a corner that is followed to less steep ground and a belay in a short corner (junction with Megaton).
4) 4a, 18m. Move left and climb the line of three grooves (Lamb's Chimney) before traversing right to a belay under an impressive crack.
5) 4b, 26m. Traverse right under a bulge to below a chimney (Oppenheimer's Chimney). Climb the chimney (awkward to start), to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock , Do you climb VS? , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cumbria for the Recreational User , Lakeland 3 Star VS Routes , Gable & Pillar 3 Star Routes below E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
tbrittain 24 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Wired guide descriptions made me go wrong at the end of P2, the smooth slab isn't a smooth slab at all! Belay is just above a load of abseil tat. Also avoided the chimney on P5 as it looked dirty as hell, the traverse further right is much cleaner and probably around 4b?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wired guide descriptions made me go wrong at the end of P2, the smooth slab isn't a smooth slab at all! Belay is just above a load of abseil tat. Also avoided the chimney on P5 as it looked dirty as hell, the traverse further right is much cleaner and probably around 4b?
Jon Read 17 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Too dirty to be a three star climbing experience - 1 star for historical interest imho.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Too dirty to be a three star climbing experience - 1 star for historical interest imho.

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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Gimmer Crag)

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