Rockfax Description
A tremendous route that is both high in the grade and very sustained. Belay at the base of an intrusion of lighter rock 12m down from the large block in the gully bed.
1) 4b, 27m. Climb up the intrusion for 7m, then move left to a grassy ledge under a corner-line. Climb the rib and corner to a move left onto a small ledge. Move up a slab/rib (with difficulty) to a ledge and belay on the right.
2) 4b, 20m. Make some hard moves up the groove and continue along a rib to a belay at its end.
3) 4b, 18m. Head out right to gain the slab and rib just below a horizontal break. Follow the amazingly positioned slabby rib to a stance at block.
4) 4a, 15m. Move up a crack rightwards for 3m, then climb the slab above on small holds to the top. © Rockfax
Classic Rock , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Long Routes , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lakes 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lakes ticklist , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , Cumbrian Classics , Gable & Pillar 3 Star Routes below E1
User | Date | Notes | ||
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milanboez | 17 Jul |
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βeta: Generally steady for the grade, but the crux felt harder than many vs 4c cruxes I've done. That loose jug doesn't help either! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Generally steady for the grade, but the crux felt harder than many vs 4c cruxes I've done. That loose jug doesn't help either! |
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jevs100 | 6 May |
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βeta: As someone else mentions, there is a loose hold on P2 at the top of the crux move, that you really want to be able to grab - there other things to grab around it, but be aware. | ||
Show beta
βeta: As someone else mentions, there is a loose hold on P2 at the top of the crux move, that you really want to be able to grab - there other things to grab around it, but be aware. |
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JJ Spooner | 21 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Crucial Hold on Crux is very loose, be careful! You can avoid this by climbing up and to the left at a similar grade. | ||
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βeta: Crucial Hold on Crux is very loose, be careful! You can avoid this by climbing up and to the left at a similar grade. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Napes)