A classic and historic way of reaching the summit of Pillar Rock. It is also the easiest descent (apart from an abseil). Start from the base of the Jordan Gap.
1) 16m. Move up a short wall onto an easy-angled slab (The Slab) and head across it to below a steep groove and belay here.
2) 30m. Climb the groove (or ledges just to its left) to a big ledge (The Notch) and move right to a steep rib with large worn holds. Climb the rib to another ledge before stepping right to a slab that is in the gully. Climb the slab to an easy-angled chimney that gains the summit. © Rockfax
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