UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
A desperate start, requiring a huge reach across the horizontal roof, gains a positive jug at the lip. Pull into the niche above and then continue up the bulging wall, following a vague crack-line. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 25.6.94 25/Jun/1994.

Feedback

User Date Notes
ExBristolian 29 Jul, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Whoah, that's a tough old sequence. Reaching the lip with the right doesn't feel too bad and isn't all about reach, but you're then left wrong handed. Getting the left in the same position is MUCH harder, but might just work? The top isn't completely trivial either and certainly felt harder than the old A3/E3 grade, but I suspect that's because the aid line (old studs visible) took you into the flake line further right than the free line?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whoah, that's a tough old sequence. Reaching the lip with the right doesn't feel too bad and isn't all about reach, but you're then left wrong handed. Getting the left in the same position is MUCH harder, but might just work? The top isn't completely trivial either and certainly felt harder than the old A3/E3 grade, but I suspect that's because the aid line (old studs visible) took you into the flake line further right than the free line?

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High 8a
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High 7c+
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Route of Interest
Born Slippy

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge))

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