UKC

450m, 12 pitches. The left hand skyline ridge (as viewed from the hut), including the eponymous finger (doigt).

4 easy pitches (3c-4a) lead to the base of the finger. This is gained by a 4b pitch which is both thrutchy yet delicate! The finger can be avoided by traversing along easy ledges on the left. Absail off of the finger on the left/south side (20m).

50m or so of easy scrambling/walking takes you to the start of the next section. Climb the rock step on its crest, ignoring the steeper line of bolts on the left, for a couple of 4b pitches, before the famous 'Rasoir' section. This is easy (3c) but highly exposed, with poor protection. Continue round or over a final small pinnacle to reach the base of the steep headwall.

From here there are multiple options: the easiest is an escape right along ledges to reach the Voie normal (west flank). The purest line is to continue directly up the headwall (5c, 5b, 6b/A0) to the summit. the 6b/A0 pitch can also be avoided with an escape to its right up 4b terrain. Alternatively you can traverse right and finish up any of the other bolted routes to the summit.

Take the West flank or Sallanches chimneys to return to the hut.

Ticklists

The Big Easys , Big Ideas

Feedback

User Date Notes
raliadsa skcalbwah 22 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of bolts, no need for any trad gear. 12 QDs of various lengths and a couple of slings is fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Plenty of bolts, no need for any trad gear. 12 QDs of various lengths and a couple of slings is fine.
Webster 3 Aug Show βeta
βeta: You will need more than 8 quickdraws (which camp2camp suggests) for the 5c pitch, 10 might just make it but 12 would see you safe! we had to use single crabs on several of the bolts...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You will need more than 8 quickdraws (which camp2camp suggests) for the 5c pitch, 10 might just make it but 12 would see you safe! we had to use single crabs on several of the bolts...
Webster 12 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: there are a million and 1 cairns all over the shop on the approach, some of which will lead you away from the crag. it is best to try and hug the toe of the buttress as close as possible on the way up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: there are a million and 1 cairns all over the shop on the approach, some of which will lead you away from the crag. it is best to try and hug the toe of the buttress as close as possible on the way up.
Butel 16 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If avoiding the last pitch of 6c and going to the right up the corner be aware that there is alot of loose rock on this section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If avoiding the last pitch of 6c and going to the right up the corner be aware that there is alot of loose rock on this section.

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Les Miss

Grade: 5c ***
(Pic de Jallouvre)

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