UKC

35m, 2 pitches. Rather better than appearances might suggest.
1. 4c/5a. Up the groove to a nice couple of moves right to the short smooth groove. This is difficult for short climbers but the protection is perfect. Up and traverse left to an excellent stance. Remember to protect your second!
2. 4b. Straight up on a plethora of wonderful holds to a move right at the grassy bay. Up to the short square groove. this can seep but the rib to the right offers delightful climbing. Very traditional finish.

R N Campbell 1959.

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User Date Notes
niamhjarvis 16 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lead first pitch. Can confirm that crux feels harder than HS for shorter climber (5'2 with -2" ape index). Tech grade of 5a seems accurate for shorter reach, but protection is good at crux so I'd suggest low VS for short climbers.
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βeta: Lead first pitch. Can confirm that crux feels harder than HS for shorter climber (5'2 with -2" ape index). Tech grade of 5a seems accurate for shorter reach, but protection is good at crux so I'd suggest low VS for short climbers.
mattbye 5 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Very vegetated
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βeta: Very vegetated
Kieranroscoe 20 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Got very lost... thought I found the way... Didn't.
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βeta: Got very lost... thought I found the way... Didn't.

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Guidebooks for Polney Crag (Craig a Barns)

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