UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is within Earls Hill Nature Reserve which is managed by Shropshire Wildlife Trust. The Trust have a positive view of climbing here providing that people are sensitive to the ecological interests of the site. In particular the scree slopes should be treated with care. No camping and no fires, please.

The 'Fifty Foot Wall' routes were cleaned up and extensively restored in early 2013, with the intention of giving climbers an alternative area if (as often happens) Peregrines choose to nest on the main crag. Feel free to go try these - you might actually like them...

In late 2013, the Wildlife Trust undertook some further vegetation clearance work, mainly of invasive trees on the scree slopes, but also of scrub on the rocks. The intent was to improve the cliff environment from the climbers' point of view, as it will allow more light and air to dry the rocks better.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines normally nest at Pontesford Rocks each year, with the nest site changing slightly from year to year. Site notices are normally placed on gates on the access track, and near the foot of the crag showing the extent of agreed restrictions, but as a general principle please avoid the whole crag (Main Buttress, The Needle and the Fifty Foot Wall) during the restricted period.

In 2020, we attempted to find a way to permit the use of some routes whilst closing others, but a number of incidents occurred which meant this was not really workable. This included one party who apparently abseiled right over the ledge with the nest and caused considerable consternation to the birds.

The Shropshire Wildlife Trust, The Shropshire Peregrine Group and the BMC would like to thank all climbers who have avoided the rocks during the 2020, 2021, 2022 and 2023 nesting seasons. There appear to have been chicks raised successfully in each of those years.In early 2024, the birds have been seen prospecting the site once again, and it looks like they've selected the same nest location that they've used successfully for the last couple of years - it is therefore necessary to impose the same seasonal restriction as mentioned above between early March and mid July.

Rockfax Description
A serious line up the stepped bulges to the right of Hawthorne Crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A serious lead. Start just to the right of Hawthorn Crack. Climb directly over two overlapsand pull over the third using small finger holds. Finish leftwards through a small "V" notch. (Description taken from West Midlands Rock by D. Kerr)

S.Roberts (unseconded) 15/Jul/1993.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Luke14 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn\'t spot a single piece of gear that could protect the Crux. Would be an extremely spicy lead at best.
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't spot a single piece of gear that could protect the Crux. Would be an extremely spicy lead at best.

Logged Ascents

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 2
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bastard

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Llanymynech Quarry)

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