This was once one of the great E4 pitches of the area but the surface of the rock is exfoliating in places and ascents in recent times have been plagued by holds snapping, however many still find this a worthwhile pitch. Take a few small wires, although the bulk of the hard climbing is bolt protected. Start on blocks below a thin left-slanting seam. Follow the thin, left-slanting seam (wires) until just before a big flake crack that comes in from the left. Now follow the line of bolts rightwards up a shallow depression to a steep finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Best climb on the crag, a real gem.
The diagonal line, starting on the left wall to the slab.
First clip is high and a hard move just below it, so either stickclip or use a small wire near the start.
Worth doing at this grade.
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