UKC

Rockfax Description
100m+. Stunning climbing, weaving across the entire face of Diablo. This mini-expedition ventures to half height in places, and could perhaps be better described as a girdle, with the preferred direction seemingly right to left (looking in). Because it is such a lengthy outing, it naturally falls into four sections, with three excellent rests en-route.
1) 6b. Climb leftwards from the easy way down, to gain the rest in the Afroman start cave.
2) 7a+. The crux pitch. Traverse leftwards out of the cave, and embark on a lengthy and sustained down-climb to gain the low traverse across the centre of the crag. (An alternative has now been added, at the same grade: keep low onto a block feature, and make desperate moves off it to gain the original line.)
3) 7a. Climb leftwards, gaining more and more height, until the big recess at the finish of Iguanadon is gained. A very steep and pumpy pitch, and not much easier than the second one.
4) 6b+. The final pitch is juggy and nicely sustained, heading across the steep wall to gain easier ground left of The Italian Job. Your choice now is to either finish for that route, or up the easier but less safe wall to the left. It's also possible to traverse all the way out, to reach the conglomerate bowl-cave to the south. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
S0

Ken Palmer, Grant Farquhar Oct/2001.

Ticklists

40 Essential DWS routes in Mallorca , ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50 , Mallorca DWS ticklist of Desire , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

47 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Porto Cristo - Cova del Diablo

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wax

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Sa Calobra)

Loading Notifications...