Rockfax Description
100m+. Stunning climbing, weaving across the entire face of Diablo. This mini-expedition ventures to half height in places, and could perhaps be better described as a girdle, with the preferred direction seemingly right to left (looking in). Because it is such a lengthy outing, it naturally falls into four sections, with three excellent rests en-route.
1) 6b. Climb leftwards from the easy way down, to gain the rest in the Afroman start cave.
2) 7a+. The crux pitch. Traverse leftwards and down out of the cave keeping low onto a block feature. Make desperate moves off it to gain to easier ground. Alternatively embark on a lengthy and sustained traverse left out of the cave across the wall and then down-climb to easier ground to rest under the start of The Lobster.
3) 7a. Climb leftwards, gaining more and more height, to reach a cave (rest). Climb left on big holds over very steep and pumpy ground until the big recess at the finish of Iguanadon is gained.
4) 6b+. The final pitch is juggy and nicely sustained, heading across the steep wall to gain easier ground left of The Italian Job. Your choice now is to either finish for that route, or up the easier but less safe wall to the left. You can traverse all the way out, to reach the conglomerate bowl-cave to the south. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
S0
Ken Palmer, Grant Farquhar Oct/2001.
40 Essential DWS routes in Mallorca , ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50 , Mallorca DWS ticklist of Desire , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Es Grau des Ruc)