Rockfax Description
A route up the huge left wall of the gully that delineates the right-hand side of Presten. Start off the first good ledge above the point where the Vestpillaren heads out left, where a long crack runs up the wall.
1) N5+, 55m. Climb the long crack to a small stance.
2) N5, 30m. The 'Holy Dangler Pitch' - continue up the crack.
3) N6, 40m. Trend left up ramps to reach a steep groove. Climb this to a large grass ledge. Belay here or 15m left under a big right-trending groove.
4) N7, 35m. The big groove is the 'Psycho Mode Pitch'. Eventually move down and right into a continuation groove. Belay at the top of this under a black streak.
5) N7+, 35m. The 'Dolph Lundgren Pitch'. Hard slab climbing up the black streak leads into a groove. Climb this to a grass ledge and a stance over on the left.
6) N6-, 35m. Follow the right-trending groove to reach a belay at the base of the huge basalt dyke - the upper section of this is the escape pitch from Vestpillaren.
7) N6, 30m. Trend left with a couple of thin moves to join Vestpillaren at the end of the slanting corner pitch.
8) N4+, 30m, 9) N5, 35m, 10) N3, 55m. As Vestpillaren Direct. © Rockfax

FA. Jo Arve Repp, Bror Morten Raum, Steinar Grynning 7.2011 15/Jul/2011.

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