Rockfax Description
E1. A classic with some great climbing. Take a full rack and large gear for pitches 3 and 5. Start at the foot of the pillar where the name is painted on the rock.1) 4, 35m. Climb shallow grooves and cracks to a ledge (can be reached by walking around to the right).2) 6a, 45m. Climb the steep wall and cracks above to a ledge. Continue up more cracks to the top of a pillar. The pitch can be split at a spectacular stance on the half-way flake.3) 5, 45m. Move left, climb a groove and slab to an overhang (peg). Pull over into a groove (possible belay) then move left to a steep, wide crack. Climb this to a belay.4) 5, 25m. Follow the corner crack to join Espolón Central. © Rockfax
FA. Chema Rameirez, Manolo Pomares 1982.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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misterb | 9 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: P3 stops at about 35m at a 2 bolt belay on a nice ledge ( no ab rings) before the wide crack with a slab to the right, P4 is now 35m. You can traverse right, across the slab 12m from the top to the ab station if you don't have big cams to protect the wide crack. 2 x 50+ metre abs to the top of the first pitch | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: P3 stops at about 35m at a 2 bolt belay on a nice ledge ( no ab rings) before the wide crack with a slab to the right, P4 is now 35m. You can traverse right, across the slab 12m from the top to the ab station if you don't have big cams to protect the wide crack. 2 x 50+ metre abs to the top of the first pitch |
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derekm | 19 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely line, with pitch2 and 5 standing out. We split pitch 2 at a spectacular flake stance. Pitch 5 needs more than one large friend: a long run out on ever widening layback crack. Old fashioned big hexes would be good! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lovely line, with pitch2 and 5 standing out. We split pitch 2 at a spectacular flake stance. Pitch 5 needs more than one large friend: a long run out on ever widening layback crack. Old fashioned big hexes would be good! |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Puig Campana)