UKC

155m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. A classic with some great climbing. Take a full rack and large gear for pitches 3 and 5. Start at the foot of the pillar where the name is painted on the rock.
1) 4, 35m. Climb shallow grooves and cracks to a ledge (can be reached by walking around to the right).
2) 6a, 45m. Climb the steep wall and cracks above to a ledge. Continue up more cracks to the top of a pillar. The pitch can be split at a spectacular stance on the half-way flake.
3) 5, 45m. Move left, climb a groove and slab to an overhang (peg). Pull over into a groove (possible belay) then move left to a steep, wide crack. Climb this to a belay.
4) 5, 25m. Follow the corner crack to join Espolón Central. © Rockfax

FA. Chema Rameirez, Manolo Pomares 1982.

Ticklists

Costa blanca 2022

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User Date Notes
derekm 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely line, with pitch2 and 5 standing out. We split pitch 2 at a spectacular flake stance. Pitch 5 needs more than one large friend: a long run out on ever widening layback crack. Old fashioned big hexes would be good!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely line, with pitch2 and 5 standing out. We split pitch 2 at a spectacular flake stance. Pitch 5 needs more than one large friend: a long run out on ever widening layback crack. Old fashioned big hexes would be good!

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Diedros Mágicos

Grade: 6a ***
(Puig Campana)

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