Once considered the hardest via ferrata in the Dolomites, Tomaselli is one of the jewels of the Ampezzo valley. The situation is dramatic and the views from the summit are superb, particularly on clear days when climbers on the nearby ferrata Giovanni Lipella can easily be seen. The rock is solid, the route technically demanding and, best of all, the summit can only be accessed by the via ferrata, lending a sense of achievement and a guilty elitism to the whole affair. The descent involves another short via ferrata before leading you into a steep scree gully which can be unpleasant when busy. It is worth taking a headtorch to explore the numerous interesting tunnels and war remains both on the approach and descent of this route, although you won't need one for the route itself.
Approach - From Cortina, take the SS48 to the west following signs for the Falzarego Pass (2117m). There is ample parking at the Lagazuoi cable. From here, take the cable car then descend path 20 towards Rifugio Scotoni. On reaching the junction, branch right onto path 20 b (marked 1020 on old Tabacco maps) and continue past remains of the First World War. Contour under the rock face to reach the site of the former Bivacco della Chiesa, decommissioned in 2014 but still marked on many maps. From here a short walk leads to the start of the ferrata.
VF - The route begins with an traverse left, then the wire continues more vertically. Where the wire ends, continue up a short and loose gully with ring stemples. Then follow the well-worn path which wends through the scree (possible escape route down a gully back to path 20 b ). The path narrows considerably and is protected by wire in the most exposed sections. Where the wire forks, go right and continue vertically until reaching the characteristic exposed slab to the summit.
Descent - The descent requires the down climbing of another short ferrata. Follow the wire from the summit to the north east and descend for around 40 minutes. Continue down a loose gully to reach Forcella Grande. From here, join the path 20 b and either, retrace your steps past the Bivacco della Chiesa, or continue south to Forcella Travenanzes, joining onto path 402 to walk back to the bottom of the cable car © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
of ascent, 300m of VF. A difficult and sustained route leading to the summit of Punta Sud (2980m). The finale is tremdous and very exposed. The descent isn't easy either, being rated 3C in it's own right
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