UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A worthy counter line to Mandrake featuring interesting and sustained climbing. Start 4m left of the gearing-up ledge below a wide corner (as for Mandrake).
1) 4c, 18m. Head up to the base of the corner and climb it to below a wide crack. Climb the wide crack to a ledge and belay in an alcove.
2) 4c, 18m. Move left with difficulty onto a shallow rib then traverse leftwards across the wall to below a wide corner-crack/chimney. Climb this to a tree then follow easier ground to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There are two fallen trees with a possible rock behind one of them which affect the top pitch. This should be avoided for the time being (April 2012)

Now sound and clean. (August 2013)

Ticklists

Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Cumbria for the Recreational User , FRCC Borrowdale guide 2016 graded list , Lakeland Cracks

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 13 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Quite a poor belay. Currently a fixed wire and got 2 micro-cams in below it. Both the blocks are wobbly and loose so don't use them!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a poor belay. Currently a fixed wire and got 2 micro-cams in below it. Both the blocks are wobbly and loose so don't use them!
laurafraser-smith 16 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Nesting bird (pigeon I think) at belay after P1. I think it frightened me as much as I frightened it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nesting bird (pigeon I think) at belay after P1. I think it frightened me as much as I frightened it!
C Rettiw 6 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, 3 stars. Topout looks grotty, but is actually fine as rock is clean. Watch out for a loose spike at first optional belay and the holly is also very loose/unstable, so don't pull on it or sling it unless you want to taker a flyer with a tree attached to you.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, 3 stars. Topout looks grotty, but is actually fine as rock is clean. Watch out for a loose spike at first optional belay and the holly is also very loose/unstable, so don't pull on it or sling it unless you want to taker a flyer with a tree attached to you.
jwood 15 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
jwood 15 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
jwood 15 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
jwood 15 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
jwood 15 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried to lead it but it was grotty and hard, belayed sam up the first like 4 metres then he led the rest, should have taken the 2nd pitch as it was excellent
mandyglanvill 17 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: No wasp nest now on route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No wasp nest now on route
Stanley 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, very 3D climbing on the first pitch. It started to rain just as I began pitch 2. Extra motivation not to hang about.
Show beta
βeta: Great fun, very 3D climbing on the first pitch. It started to rain just as I began pitch 2. Extra motivation not to hang about.
Si Withington 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wasps nest just before the top out is still there. Run it out and get clear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wasps nest just before the top out is still there. Run it out and get clear!
orangesmartie61 24 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We climbed past a wasps nest near the top of the 2nd pitch but they weren\'t agressive, thankfully.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We climbed past a wasps nest near the top of the 2nd pitch but they weren't agressive, thankfully.
Colin Dyer 29 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There are a couple of different interpretations to the "step left" at the beginning of pitch 2. The lower options is a stiff and committing 5a move. The higher option is a bit grubbier but on the grade.
Show beta
βeta: There are a couple of different interpretations to the "step left" at the beginning of pitch 2. The lower options is a stiff and committing 5a move. The higher option is a bit grubbier but on the grade.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High MVS
Mid MVS
Low MVS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 113
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 101
Votes cast 110
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ardus

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Shepherd’s Crag)

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