UKC

Rockfax Description
The line follows a series of corners, cracks and overhangs up the right side of the buttress, with a tough move to gain the headwall on the final pitch. Start at the gearing-up ledge below a short left-facing corner.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb the short difficult corner to a ledge. Continue up the corner/groove and slab until a move right gains a crack. Follow this to a ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 10m. Pull up leftwards over an overhang to a crack and take this until a stance on the right can be reached.
3) 5a, 12m. Traverse left below an overhang to a peg and make hard moves to get established on the headwall. Finish up the wall in a superb position. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Best 25 BORROWDALE VS/HVS's , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , 60 At 60 , Cumbria for the Recreational User

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 21 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A great quality route, varied with excellent climbing and loads of gear. Pegs can and should be backed up. I think maybe a whisker harder and just as good as Mandrake?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great quality route, varied with excellent climbing and loads of gear. Pegs can and should be backed up. I think maybe a whisker harder and just as good as Mandrake?
iainJ 29 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is filthy, take a nutkey or brush on lead so you can dig some gear placements out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is filthy, take a nutkey or brush on lead so you can dig some gear placements out.
FirthGritstone 6 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: If done as multipitch, first is grubby and harder than you think but 2nd and 3rd are quality
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If done as multipitch, first is grubby and harder than you think but 2nd and 3rd are quality
Brimham55 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: It's a single pitch route. The bottom few metres are filthy but it gets better and better as you go up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a single pitch route. The bottom few metres are filthy but it gets better and better as you go up.
Rowan Page 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a 1 move wonder but worth doing for the move. Tricky start too though.
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a 1 move wonder but worth doing for the move. Tricky start too though.
Ratfeeder 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose block in crack on 1st pitch, to be avoided.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose block in crack on 1st pitch, to be avoided.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Quayfoot Buttress

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 92
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 88
Votes cast 86
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mandrake

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Quayfoot Buttress)

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