Rockfax Description
The line follows a series of corners, cracks and overhangs up the right side of the buttress, with a tough move to gain the headwall on the final pitch. Start at the gearing-up ledge below a short left-facing corner.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb the short difficult corner to a ledge. Continue up the corner/groove and slab until a move right gains a crack. Follow this to a ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 10m. Pull up leftwards over an overhang to a crack and take this until a stance on the right can be reached.
3) 5a, 12m. Traverse left below an overhang to a peg and make hard moves to get established on the headwall. Finish up the wall in a superb position. © Rockfax
Best 25 BORROWDALE VS/HVS's , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , 60 At 60 , Cumbria for the Recreational User
User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 21 May |
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βeta: A great quality route, varied with excellent climbing and loads of gear. Pegs can and should be backed up. I think maybe a whisker harder and just as good as Mandrake? | βeta? | |
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βeta: A great quality route, varied with excellent climbing and loads of gear. Pegs can and should be backed up. I think maybe a whisker harder and just as good as Mandrake? |
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iainJ | 29 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: First pitch is filthy, take a nutkey or brush on lead so you can dig some gear placements out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First pitch is filthy, take a nutkey or brush on lead so you can dig some gear placements out. |
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FirthGritstone | 6 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: If done as multipitch, first is grubby and harder than you think but 2nd and 3rd are quality | βeta? | |
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βeta: If done as multipitch, first is grubby and harder than you think but 2nd and 3rd are quality |
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Brimham55 | 10 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: It's a single pitch route. The bottom few metres are filthy but it gets better and better as you go up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's a single pitch route. The bottom few metres are filthy but it gets better and better as you go up. |
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Rowan Page | 16 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Bit of a 1 move wonder but worth doing for the move. Tricky start too though. | ||
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βeta: Bit of a 1 move wonder but worth doing for the move. Tricky start too though. |
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Ratfeeder | 7 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Very loose block in crack on 1st pitch, to be avoided. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very loose block in crack on 1st pitch, to be avoided. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dow Crag)