Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways.
Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
The dogleg crack up the steep wall has become a lot harder since the mid-way pillar fell down, but it is now a better route. Move leftwards up the crack to where it bends. Pull straight into the upper crack. Climb this to its end, then the steep wall to the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the slanting crack to the spike on left. Move right into the crack via good runner to the top. Either lower off or climb the 6a crack to the next level. bolt added on headwall.
R Lyon, A Wells, M Cluer 16/May/1986.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Slate 2018/2019 , Llanberis Slate *** Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Butel | 2 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Just as the crack straightens up there is a really loose flake thats gona go soon. Also some hairline cracks along the flakes. Take care. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Just as the crack straightens up there is a really loose flake thats gona go soon. Also some hairline cracks along the flakes. Take care. |
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))