Rockfax Description
Another tremendous route. A bit eliminate in its lower section, but it finishes in a wild position on the headwall. Start up and right of Vector, below a wide corner.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb the groove above to the massive spike on Vector P2 and belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Join Vector and climb it through the Ochre Slab. At its top, pull right round a corner to a ledge. Move up right and climb a hidden crack to a sloping ledge belay below a pod.
3) 6a, 18m. Climb into the hanging pod with difficulty and pull out left at the top. A long reach up gains the crack which is climbed with even more difficulty. Keep going up the crack and another on the right to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the groove to the right of Vector to the spike belay of Vector. Climb the Ochre Slab to its top then move right to a short steep crack leading to a sloping ledge belay under the pod (can be done in 1 pitch). Pull steeply into the pod and at its top exit left to a jug. Pull up the wall past a peg then keep going up easier, but still pumpy cracks.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, The Tremadog 'V's', North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Caelan visits.

millsy 25/Aug AltLd dog

Led P1 & 2 together OS. Failed to second top pitch without grabbing some gear - annoyed with myself. amazing route!

with Craig Smith
JenShelley 29/Jul 2nd
FlavioL1989 29/Jul Lead
jonleighton 23/Jul Lead O/S

Top pitch only (we started up Atomic Finger Flake). Felt hard and thrutchy! Not my style...

Adam Booth 17/May 2nd dog

Had to rest on the rope again, like 6 years ago!

with Freddy
Adam Long 15/Apr AltLd O/S

First route of the year, in 2 pitches, started as for Cream. I led top pitch, pumped stupid by the end.

with Jason Pickles
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead rpt
will9911 25/Sep/16 Lead

Great route. Led crux pitch during showers, however seemed to be facing correct way to stay mainly dry .

JenShelley 25/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 01/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/15 Lead dnf
Mattlamb90 14/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Did first 2 pitches. Ry did 6a pitch, strong lead

with Ryan
spidey 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

got lucky! thank god for the hand jam/ finger lock!

with mat lamb
pete johnson 25/May/15 AltLd dog

Peg gone from crux. Damp.

geoff b 25/May/15 AltLd dog

Pete led the first pitches as one, to put me in pole position, only for me to blow it; had to use a nut to do the crux move. No peg but plenty of nuts available if you can hang around long enough to place them. I had no idea how to make that move, even with a rest.

Tom Livingstone 23/May/15 Lead rpt

Top pitch only

Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
wi11 05/Nov/14 AltLd dnf

P1&2 as one. Top pitch was wet so finished up The Snake

with Jack L
Alex Mason 11/Jun/14 2nd
Ram MkiV 11/Jun/14 Lead β
with Alex
Apharri 02/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Jim Gayler
mike mo ??/2014 -
JulesV 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Shauna
Pieterjan De Roo 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Only did the last pitch

Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd
Andy Peak 1 23/Aug/13 AltLd

1st pich only on lead

Misha 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

What a great route, building to a spectacular finish on the headwall. Memorable for the climbing and also the soaking that we got at the end! After doing Vector, Nick and I picked up Eszter, who had been climbing with Dan Gibson but clearly hadn't had enough, though she did take a bit of persuading that she wouldn't slow us down (as if!). Planned to do Cream but Eszter was saving it for the onsight, so we settled on Void. Nick did the deceptively hard 5b first pitch (looks like a scramble, actually quite tricky and pretty sustained), Eszter did the 5c second pitch through the Ochre Slab deja vu!) and across a space walking traverse above the Void (a relief to find the 'secret holds'h, while I got the 6a crux final pitch, which was 'proper' E4 6a and featured a crux that was de-Void of holds! The pod was pretty evil but succumbed to cunning finger locks and bridging. Spent a while sitting one the jug and trying to go up but getting nowhere near the finger lock before eventually spotting the smaller finger lock - wasn't actually that hard. The headwall was pleasantly sustained. Eszter shot up on second, putting my snail pace lead to shame. She had seen the rain coming... Then it was Nick's turn just as the rain arrived! It gathered intensity as he raced to beat it with a couple of falls and just after he got over the crux the heavens unleashed a torrential downpour! This was still sustained 5b/c ground so hats off to Nick for finishing it. We got absolutely soaked but were all very happy to have done a great route :-) Of course it stopped raining by the time we got back down :-/. Oh, and there is no peg - but it's pretty well protected anyway.

with Eszter, Nick
Hidden 28/Jul/13 AltLd
tim newton 22/May/13 AltLd O/S

I lead pitches 1&2 in a oner, which is a great pitch, then seconded the top pitch. Thought it was harder than cream (a bit more sustained and with a slightly harder move) though still seemed pretty steady for E4. Great climb.

Hidden 18/May/13 Lead rpt
Tom Livingstone 20/Apr/13 Lead dog

Technical. Spat off at the crux, but can't wait to get back on this and find the easier sequence! Must've had 6 attempts climbing up and down to the crux before lactic acid replaced the blood in my arms!

with mark reeves
cameronmcloughlin ??/2013 2nd
with james mchaffie
captain ??/2013 -
Sam Melville 04/Oct/12 AltLd dnf

head wall goping

Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead dog
Luke Brooks 12/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

In 2 pitches, led top one.

Hidden 07/Jun/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 18/May/12 AltLd
stephenhartley ?/May/12 2nd dog
with Burns
Mike Goldthorp 17/Apr/12 Lead RP

Finally got round to getting back on this after falling off the onsight a couple of years ago. Couldnt remember the crux sequence so got quite pumped, then it clicked and had to fight the pump the whole way up, yeaaaahooo!

with Rich
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
willoates 05/Mar/12 Lead dog

Terrible terrible climbing by me, well ard. amazing route though!

with Iona
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
No? Yes! 13/Nov/11 AltLd

Pete led the 1st slippy hard pitch and I led through on the 2nd finding hidden holds in the crack before the stance. Abbed off - neither of us felt up to completing top pitch of Void or Cream

Hidden 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/11 AltLd
mwatson 01/Oct/11 -
JRae 01/Oct/11 2nd
Toby Dunn 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S

crux pitch running with water. Harder than Cockblock in that condition, but still excellent.

with Andy Cave
Keendan 05/Jul/11 2nd β

Pitch one only. Tricky 3D climbing. 5b but made it feel much harder the way I did it...

Hidden 05/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd dnf
belay bunny turned bad 04/Jun/11 AltLd dnf

escaped into gull after pitch 2. Too hot and sweaty :(

with loundsy
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd dog
Ed Booth 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Brutal top pitch, well good!

Adam Booth 04/Mar/11 2nd dog

Had to rest on the rope. Bloody nails!

soph ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Warburton 18/Oct/10 AltLd

Did first two pitches in a oner, which was exciting. Ralph then cruised the top pitch, after a slip early on. I cruised bottom of the crack but fluffed moves with gear in way. Good route.

with Ralph Burden
thomasadixon 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Mike lead most of p1 & 2 in one I finished the bit after the ochre slab, then accidently moved onto Cream for the last pitch. Will have to come back to finish it!

with Mike
Hidden 15/Sep/10 2nd
Rich Kirby 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Kev
HIGHTOWER 08/Jul/10 2nd dog

Top pitch only.

with Pete (Indi)
Glyn 04/Jul/10 Lead β

Amazing route, great moves. Top pitch only. One wet hold near the bottom

with Trystan
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
barni 27/May/10 2nd rpt

top pitch

with Comrad, luke
Luke Brooks 27/May/10 AltLd

Top pitch of Void with first pitches of Cream.

with Konrad Doyle, Barni
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd dog
Hidden 30/Apr/10 2nd dnf
Mike Goldthorp 10/Feb/10 Lead dog

Best line ever! pod is cool and technical, crux is desperate but easy when you know how. must have down climbed from crux attempts about 10 times, savage!

soph 01/Jan/10 -
Howard Lawledge ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 AltLd
with George Ulrich
Alex Mason 15/Dec/09 Lead

Tried in 2007, groove was much harder than i remembered. Crux felt easy this time . Pumpy, sustained, Superb pitch.

with Andy, Fingers
barni 15/Sep/09 Lead dog
Toby Dunn 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Jon Fulwood
Boy ?/Aug/09 -
with Toby Dunn
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead dnf
AdrianP ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Olli
Billg 03/May/09 Lead O/S

headwall pitch was harder than Cream

with Owen Haywood
dan gibson 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
andi turner 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S


with steve
feilx 04/Apr/09 AltLd dog
with Angus
Hidden 20/Mar/09 2nd dog
Dave Rumney 07/Jun/08 AltLd
with Dennis Wong
Brown 16/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Various International meet
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Glyn 29/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Dan Mcmanus
Alex Mason 03/Apr/07 Lead dnf

pumped out on this like no other. physically peeled off the holds made it to 2/3 height past crux. deffo return to this.

with Duncan Skelton
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 16/Sep/06 TR rpt
with Nic Sellers
IOAN D 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Mills
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 03/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead dog
steveb2006 20/Jul/02 Lead dog

Led 1 and 3 - feels harder then Cream - have to pull on peg - pretty poor style

with Dave Taylor
Hidden 21/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave ??/1998 2nd dog
jfletcher 14/Jun/97 Lead O/S
sadams 14/Jun/97 Lead

traininng for troll

with Team Midlands
michael burrows 28/Mar/97 AltLd
with pete bailey
Ched ??/1997 TR
richparry ??/1997 -
FATBOYFAT ??/1997 Lead dog

slipped at the bottom of the pod

with Al Brady
nokishatov 01/Jul/95 AltLd dog
Ian Jones ??/1995 Lead dnf

Pitch one and two only and then it rained.

with Karen Ghiselli
keefe ??/1995 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
nokishatov 17/Sep/94 AltLd dog
ste_d 17/Sep/94 AltLd O/S

hopped up top pitch with one shoe

with mik
michael burrows 19/Jun/94 AltLd rpt
with john roberts
Dave Musgrove 06/Apr/94 AltLd

David led crux pitch.

with David
neilh 27/Jun/93 2nd
with mark griffiths
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Roget 10/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
crossleysm ?/Jul/92 -
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
Nick Biven 07/Jul/91 2nd O/S
with Rich Whitwell
Stoney Boy 23/May/91 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 & 3

with Colin Hughes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 10/Jul/90 AltLd
Steve Crowe 10/Jul/90 Lead

Took a fall.

with Niff
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
michael burrows 06/Aug/89 AltLd rpt

led pitch 3, also lawrence cox

with brian jones
Bruce Kerr 28/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
keefe ?/Jul/89 -
with Johnny Adams
Hidden 20/May/89 Lead
uphillnow 26/Nov/88 Lead

Had 2nd Andrew Horn in 1986. Since led a further 4 times

with John Robinson
Hidden 10/Sep/88 2nd
Bob 29/Aug/88 AltLd β

I'd failed on the top pitch a couple of years earlier due to a heavy rainstorm.

with al phizacklea
Dave Douglas 25/Jul/88 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/88 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?/Sep/87 AltLd O/S
ukb & bmc shark 10/Jun/87 2nd
with Seb Grieve
Eduardo Martinez 27/May/87 Lead O/S
sadams 11/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
Mike Owen 01/Feb/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 2nd
keefe ??/1987 Lead
keefe 03/May/86 -
keefe 03/Nov/85 -
Neil R 29/Jun/85 2nd
with Ian
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
mitch1960 ??/1985 Lead
with Alan Dance
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Melok 16/Apr/84 AltLd


Mike Owen 10/Mar/84 Lead rpt
with Doug Shaw
Mark Kemball 04/Mar/84 2nd
with Craig Smith
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
daviesxxx ??/1984 Lead

Up the groove and rested on gear. Then made it to the rest. Lowered down and did it from ledge, but with gear left in.

TonyF 21/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with Tony Cox
stp 19/Jun/83 AltLd O/S
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Andy Towne
nniff ??/1983 -
Paul Clarke ??/1983 Lead

I think

with John Perry
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Mike Owen 17/Feb/81 2nd β
with Ed Wood
duncan ??/1981 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 20/Sep/80 Lead rpt
with Clive Curle
Hidden ?/Sep/80 AltLd O/S
Steve Lewis 12/Jul/80 Lead O/S
with Chris Pound
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
Mike Owen 28/May/77 Lead

1 point of aid on the head wall.

with John Roberts
petemeads ??/1977 Lead

The route had been freed when I climbed it but it was usually done with one peg for aid, which I used. So not 6a...

jon 26/Sep/76 AltLd

I remember Jim shaking his way up the upper part of the top pitch, trying to place nuts in the crack - and failing - and just throwing them away into the bushes and trying another! Eventually having exhausted his supply and still failed to get anything in, he told me to watch him as he was going to go for it, which he did! He might as well have been soloing by the time he reached the top! I think we both used aid to get out of the pod on that occasion.

with big jim
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set