UKC

Restricted Access

Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways. 

Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.

This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by  First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols,  see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case.  Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds

Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these  birds at at time. 

A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular  routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".

Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes. 

The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended. 

Rockfax Description
A tricky pitch that is bolder since the microwire placements have blown out. It can be split at the flakes/ledges at half-height. Start by some ledges just before the scree, below a vague rib. Ascend the rib to a shattered crack, get in as much gear as possible because there isn't much more! Carry on up the shattered crack until the climbing gets hard and a foothold can be seen out left. Make a very committing move left onto the foothold, after which good holds lead to the broken ledges. Take the right-hand line of two bolts, passing the second via a tricky move out of the letter-box - crux. Above, easier but bold climbing leads up and right to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Funny names... , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , slate E5's , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , ... And One For The Crow

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13 Jun Show βeta
βeta: I don’t think the micro wires are any worse than they were 20 years ago. DMM offsets, a skyhook and a bit of equalising gave me a cluster I was content with.
Show beta
βeta: I don’t think the micro wires are any worse than they were 20 years ago. DMM offsets, a skyhook and a bit of equalising gave me a cluster I was content with.
Luke01 28 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some misleading info about for this route, such as 'the micro wire placements have blown out', which made me put it off for years. It seems unlikely that anything has changed, either way its still E5.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some misleading info about for this route, such as 'the micro wire placements have blown out', which made me put it off for years. It seems unlikely that anything has changed, either way its still E5.

Logged Ascents

44 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 24 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 10
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Prizewinner

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Simdde Ddu)

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