UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
A great route - probably the best of the E5s on this slab. It is hard to read low down as there is no real line to follow. Start 10m right of Cystitis By Proxy at the first 'landing pad'. Climb the slab to a horizontal break at 10m. Continue on for 5m to a leftwards traverse and some microwires. Move up to a bolt runner, make a desperate move past this, and then follow a left-trending line to the broken ledges. Take the left bolt line. At the first bolt, traverse left for 4m to below the bolt and move up to this. From here, either step left and head direct, or take a diagonally rising line leftwards to the top. Photo on p.ยงยง. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route finding masterpiece is the easiest of the hard routes right of Poetry Pink. Start at a step in the scree 4m right of Cystitis by Proxy. Climb directly to a thin break and gear. Trend up and slightly left to easier ground and small wires before climbing direct to the first bolt. Make hard moves up and left past it up to the rainbow and easy climbing to clip the first bolt on Cystitis. Pick out the line traversing left for 4m to gain reasonable holds and the bolt on Released from Treatment. Continue up and left to the top grinning from ear to ear. Brilliant.

Dave Towse, John Redhead (P1) Dave Towse, A Newton (P2) 05/Apr/1986.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E5 ticklist, slate E5's, Llanberis Slate *** Routes

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

45 users have logged this
15 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Spirit from the Cage

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Bryn y Dyfrgi)
Loading Notifications...