UKC

Restricted Access

Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways. 

Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.

This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by  First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols,  see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case.  Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds

Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these  birds at at time. 

A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular  routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".

Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes. 

The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended. 

22m.

Rockfax Description
Seriously strenuous. Start at the dogleg crack. The crack is easy to the ledge at 10m, after which it is much harder and sustained. Eventually you are forced out onto the wall on the left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the bow shaped crack. Now the hard bit - step back left to go up the remainder of the crack to finally get to good holds.

P Williams 20/May/1986.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Michelle's crack ticklist , Slate 2018/2019 , Slate crack hitlist , Post Quarantine Blowout , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Another lifelist? , North Wales To Do List , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
Larakateadventures 28 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Got a silver cam stuck in the start of the top crack. Rhys Beddoe tough tag! If anyone gets it back before I do please message me! The old stuck cam has gone as of this week. Also a stuck dragonfly from me... oops!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got a silver cam stuck in the start of the top crack. Rhys Beddoe tough tag! If anyone gets it back before I do please message me! The old stuck cam has gone as of this week. Also a stuck dragonfly from me... oops!
dmurray 23 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Stuck cam near the top is bomber and in good condition as of 22/6/23 so fine to clip and commit to the top! If anyone frees it and is feeling generous it has my details on the toughtag
Show beta
βeta: Stuck cam near the top is bomber and in good condition as of 22/6/23 so fine to clip and commit to the top! If anyone frees it and is feeling generous it has my details on the toughtag
Daniel Heber 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: "Lead" this route on a top rope due to COVID 19 with Plas Y Brenin. A stuck cam and nut placement near the top of the route make it much easier! Unfortunately fell right before topping out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "Lead" this route on a top rope due to COVID 19 with Plas Y Brenin. A stuck cam and nut placement near the top of the route make it much easier! Unfortunately fell right before topping out.

Logged Ascents

482 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 223 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 81
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 81
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vulture

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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