UKC

Restricted Access

Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways. 

Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.

This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by  First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols,  see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case.  Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds

Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these  birds at at time. 

A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular  routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".

Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes. 

The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
A tricky route, with a radical sideways dyno. Climb Gerbil Abuse to the arete/groove, then make a hard move right to the main arete. Finish up the groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow Gerbil Abuse to second bolt, hard moves then to the arete. Climb this (2 bolts). Abseil off.

G Smith 16/Aug/1986.

Ticklists

Top class slate sport 7b-8a , Slate ArĂȘtes (sport) , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+ , Slate Sport

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Ops

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Gideon Quarries [Glyn Rhonwy])

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