Restricted Access
Ramshaw is home to some of the hardest routes in Britain and most of them are graded HVS - a Yosemite style tape job is the only access requirement! There are no access problems at the main crag. However, do not try and climb at Lady Rock (the buttresses on the far right above the farm house), these are not on access land, the owner lives very close and has been confrontational.
Rockfax Description
10m. Sprint up the flake then swing left and make a swift mantel before climbing a precarious scoop to a desperately rounded exit. A large cams protects the last move. Every move is supposed to be worth three stars and it is said to be E2 for grit technicians. © Rockfax
FA. Andrew Woodward 1977.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Winter Grit ticklist , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , On Peak Rock , Best Before 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Stuart Walker | 30 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Sorry to be controversial ... but I actually thought that was hard (like actually E4) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry to be controversial ... but I actually thought that was hard (like actually E4) |
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| dbottomley | 18 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The BMC grade of E3 5c seems more fair. Maybe I\'m tall, maybe you\'re shit? | βeta? | |
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βeta: The BMC grade of E3 5c seems more fair. Maybe I'm tall, maybe you're shit? |
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| Summit Sense | 14 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Yesss! What a route. Fantastic flakes then a thought-provoking top out. Tried to mantel straight up from the footledge at first, but found it a little less insecure/ scrittley to top out few steps left towards the groove of National Acrobat. Good gear up to the point of the last flake (didn't have a big cam for the top out as per BMC guide suggests) | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Yesss! What a route. Fantastic flakes then a thought-provoking top out. Tried to mantel straight up from the footledge at first, but found it a little less insecure/ scrittley to top out few steps left towards the groove of National Acrobat. Good gear up to the point of the last flake (didn't have a big cam for the top out as per BMC guide suggests) |
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| Sam Doyle | 3 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Every move is certainly worth three stars and its also reasonably safe. Bit unsure of the grade especially if you use a camalot five like I did. It didn't feel too hard even as my first onsight "E4". | ||
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βeta: Brilliant route. Every move is certainly worth three stars and its also reasonably safe. Bit unsure of the grade especially if you use a camalot five like I did. It didn't feel too hard even as my first onsight "E4". |
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| phatlad | 14 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Thought it was one of the best routes I have ever done, really loved it. Guess it's worth E3 if you have about a Camelot 5 for the top runnel, then that nasty rock over seems all too easy, But I didn't have one and was pretty excited when rocking on to the top slab. 3*** | ||
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βeta: Thought it was one of the best routes I have ever done, really loved it. Guess it's worth E3 if you have about a Camelot 5 for the top runnel, then that nasty rock over seems all too easy, But I didn't have one and was pretty excited when rocking on to the top slab. 3*** |
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| Adam Long | 25 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Very similar in style to Ascent of man, but easily a full grade easier in every sense! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very similar in style to Ascent of man, but easily a full grade easier in every sense! |
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| JTL | 18 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: E3 5c possibly a fair grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: E3 5c possibly a fair grade |
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| mark s | 14 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: fantastic route,every move 3 star | βeta? | |
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βeta: fantastic route,every move 3 star |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Ramshaw Rocks
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Borstal Breakout
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Hen Cloud)