Rockfax Description
10m. Sprint up the flake then swing left and make a swift mantel before climbing a precarious scoop to a desperately rounded exit. A large cams protects the last move. Every move is supposed to be worth three stars and it is said to be E2 for grit technicians. © Rockfax
FA. Andrew Woodward 1977.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E4 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| dbottomley | 18 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The BMC grade of E3 5c seems more fair. Maybe I'm tall, maybe you're shit? | βeta? |
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βeta: The BMC grade of E3 5c seems more fair. Maybe I'm tall, maybe you're shit? |
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| Bristol_Quornstar | 14 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Yesss! What a route. Fantastic flakes then a thought-provoking top out. Tried to mantel straight up from the footledge at first, but found it a little less insecure/ scrittley to top out few steps left towards the groove of National Acrobat. Good gear up to the point of the last flake (didn't have a big cam for the top out as per BMC guide suggests) | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Yesss! What a route. Fantastic flakes then a thought-provoking top out. Tried to mantel straight up from the footledge at first, but found it a little less insecure/ scrittley to top out few steps left towards the groove of National Acrobat. Good gear up to the point of the last flake (didn't have a big cam for the top out as per BMC guide suggests) |
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| Sam Doyle | 3 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Every move is certainly worth three stars and its also reasonably safe. Bit unsure of the grade especially if you use a camalot five like I did. It didn't feel too hard even as my first onsight "E4". | βeta? |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Every move is certainly worth three stars and its also reasonably safe. Bit unsure of the grade especially if you use a camalot five like I did. It didn't feel too hard even as my first onsight "E4". |
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| phatlad | 14 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Thought it was one of the best routes I have ever done, really loved it. Guess it's worth E3 if you have about a Camelot 5 for the top runnel, then that nasty rock over seems all too easy, But I didn't have one and was pretty excited when rocking on to the top slab. 3*** | βeta? |
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βeta: Thought it was one of the best routes I have ever done, really loved it. Guess it's worth E3 if you have about a Camelot 5 for the top runnel, then that nasty rock over seems all too easy, But I didn't have one and was pretty excited when rocking on to the top slab. 3*** |
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| Adam Long | 25 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Very similar in style to Ascent of man, but easily a full grade easier in every sense! | βeta? |
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βeta: Very similar in style to Ascent of man, but easily a full grade easier in every sense! |
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| JTL | 18 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: E3 5c possibly a fair grade | βeta? |
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βeta: E3 5c possibly a fair grade |
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| mark s | 14 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: fantastic route,every move 3 star | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: fantastic route,every move 3 star |
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Logged Ascents
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Chameleon
Grade: E4 6a ***(Hen Cloud)