Rockfax Description
A good route with a strong line. Start at the base of the wall between two trees (as for The Original Route).
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the wall and thin crack on the right to a ledge.
2) 4b, 10m. The corner leads to a good ledge and belay.
3) 5a, 23m. Climb the groove left of the undercut main groove to some gear, then move down and make a technical traverse right across into the groove itself. Climb the groove to where it opens out and belay.
4) 4c, 25m. Move up and out left onto the arete and follow this to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Langdale 3 Star HVS Round - Climb them all in a single day , The V.S.+ Ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Turbo-Punter's Tradification
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 4 Aug |
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βeta: p.s. whole thing best done in 2 pitches, first 20m, second 47m. | βeta? | |
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βeta: p.s. whole thing best done in 2 pitches, first 20m, second 47m. |
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| EA_Mountain_Skills | 8 Feb |
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βeta: Takes ‘the line’ of the crag from base to top & interesting all the way. Worthwhile. | ||
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βeta: Takes ‘the line’ of the crag from base to top & interesting all the way. Worthwhile. |
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| C Witter | 2 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: A really good route. The 2013 FRCC guide is quite clear that you traverse right into the groove "just above the lip of the overhang". It's still 5a - not 4c. After that, you take the steep, awkward groove for a little while, until it eases, but you can quite quickly move out left onto the face/slab. This gives a sustained 20m of excellent, grippy and delicate climbing of about 4c/5a. Anyone gardening their way up the groove only has themselves to blame. At least 2 stars, HVS 4c, 5a | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A really good route. The 2013 FRCC guide is quite clear that you traverse right into the groove "just above the lip of the overhang". It's still 5a - not 4c. After that, you take the steep, awkward groove for a little while, until it eases, but you can quite quickly move out left onto the face/slab. This gives a sustained 20m of excellent, grippy and delicate climbing of about 4c/5a. Anyone gardening their way up the groove only has themselves to blame. At least 2 stars, HVS 4c, 5a |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Raven Crag (Langdale)
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Aquarius
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Pavey Ark)