UKC

Rockfax Description
A good route with a strong line. Start at the base of the wall between two trees (as for The Original Route).
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the wall and thin crack on the right to a ledge.
2) 4b, 10m. The corner leads to a good ledge and belay.
3) 5a, 23m. Climb the groove left of the undercut main groove to some gear, then move down and make a technical traverse right across into the groove itself. Climb the groove to where it opens out and belay.
4) 4c, 25m. Move up and out left onto the arete and follow this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Langdale 3 Star HVS Round - Climb them all in a single day , The V.S.+ Ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

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User Date Notes
C Witter 4 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: p.s. whole thing best done in 2 pitches, first 20m, second 47m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: p.s. whole thing best done in 2 pitches, first 20m, second 47m.
EA_Mountain_Skills 8 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Takes ‘the line’ of the crag from base to top & interesting all the way. Worthwhile.
Show beta
βeta: Takes ‘the line’ of the crag from base to top & interesting all the way. Worthwhile.
C Witter 2 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A really good route. The 2013 FRCC guide is quite clear that you traverse right into the groove "just above the lip of the overhang". It's still 5a - not 4c. After that, you take the steep, awkward groove for a little while, until it eases, but you can quite quickly move out left onto the face/slab. This gives a sustained 20m of excellent, grippy and delicate climbing of about 4c/5a. Anyone gardening their way up the groove only has themselves to blame. At least 2 stars, HVS 4c, 5a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A really good route. The 2013 FRCC guide is quite clear that you traverse right into the groove "just above the lip of the overhang". It's still 5a - not 4c. After that, you take the steep, awkward groove for a little while, until it eases, but you can quite quickly move out left onto the face/slab. This gives a sustained 20m of excellent, grippy and delicate climbing of about 4c/5a. Anyone gardening their way up the groove only has themselves to blame. At least 2 stars, HVS 4c, 5a

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 148
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 149
Votes cast 125
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Illusion

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Falcon Crag)

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