The top pitch is excellent but the first is uninspiring and can be avoided by scrambling up to the pinnacle belay from the left via an easy rake. Start at a short corner below a tree at 5m.
1) 10m. Climb to the tree and ascend the wall on the right to a large ledge and pinnacle.
2) 4a, 40m. Take the rib above the pinnacle to a ledge. Make some tricky moves up the wall to gain the start of an overhung right-leading line of weakness. Follow this until moves over the bulge can be made onto the wall above. Finish rightwards up the wall on good holds. © Rockfax
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