Rockfax Description
The top pitch is excellent but the first is uninspiring and can be avoided by scrambling up to the pinnacle belay from the left via an easy rake. Start at a short corner below a tree at 5m.
1) 10m. Climb to the tree and ascend the wall on the right to a large ledge and pinnacle.
2) 4a, 40m. Take the rib above the pinnacle to a ledge. Make some tricky moves up the wall to gain the start of an overhung right-leading line of weakness. Follow this until moves over the bulge can be made onto the wall above. Finish rightwards up the wall on good holds. © Rockfax
Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lake District Multipitch Climbing , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , British Rock Tour April '24 , Lake District Wishlist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rob Exile Ward | 19 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: I'm not the greatest at route finding but I found it difficult to square what I did with either Rockfax or FRCC (ahem ... 1967 edition) descriptions. If you go right above the tree then you climb a nice wall and get to a decent stance, but you then have to traverse 5m left to get to the pinnacle and beyond. Is this correct? | ||
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βeta: I'm not the greatest at route finding but I found it difficult to square what I did with either Rockfax or FRCC (ahem ... 1967 edition) descriptions. If you go right above the tree then you climb a nice wall and get to a decent stance, but you then have to traverse 5m left to get to the pinnacle and beyond. Is this correct? |
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C Rettiw | 16 May, 2024 |
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βeta: If you use a different, direct start, at a blunt rib right of Evening Wall, you can do this as one 49.5m pitch. A bit tight on a 50m rope, though you could belay a little below the top if need be. Only a suggestion for the sufficiently confident. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you use a different, direct start, at a blunt rib right of Evening Wall, you can do this as one 49.5m pitch. A bit tight on a 50m rope, though you could belay a little below the top if need be. Only a suggestion for the sufficiently confident. |
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Capricorn One | 15 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Gear and handholds at the crucial little traverse on p2 are sparse. | ||
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βeta: Gear and handholds at the crucial little traverse on p2 are sparse. |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Kettle Crag)