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The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree  are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.

A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag.  2018

2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).

The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Quality climbing on positive holds in good positions. Scramble up to a belay just left of a large pinnacle.
1) 4c, 35m. Move up the wall to a groove and make steep but well-protected moves up it, until an escape right can be made onto the rib. Climb the rib to a terrace and belay.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the wall above on good holds to a belay. Finish and descend as for Middlefell Buttress or abseil from the left end of the ledge (looking in). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
takes the short dark groove left of Bradley's Damnation

Ticklists

Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

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User Date Notes
LakesWinter 9 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: VS 5a???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: VS 5a???
Madmax245 19 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There is a big loose block on the left at the top of the second pitch. This will come down with not much effort.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a big loose block on the left at the top of the second pitch. This will come down with not much effort.
climbingcrow 23 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: As stated for Mendes. Watch out for the large loose block at the top of P2. I almost slinged it for a belay anchor until I tested it. Almost pulled it on top of myself. If weighted it will come down.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As stated for Mendes. Watch out for the large loose block at the top of P2. I almost slinged it for a belay anchor until I tested it. Almost pulled it on top of myself. If weighted it will come down.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Thanatos

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Pillar)

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