A longtime test piece that takes a serious line out across the headwall. Described here with The Edge Finish.1) 4c, 18m. As for Pluto.2) 6a, 35m. Follow the diagonal break of Pluto right for around 9m and arrange protection before making a fingery pull up onto the headwall. Move up to place a wire before making a thin traverse right to a hold and small pocket. Make another couple of difficult moves up and right to a foothold on the arete. Climb the arete passing bulges to a jammed block. Move up left into a groove and then pull out to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Quite scary at times and a great position.
Ultimate E5 ticklist
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))
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