The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.
A classic route with great moves and a finish which can spit you off. Climb up the technical and fingery wall, just to the right of Indecent..., to the break and a rest at a flake. (Stick-clip the second or third bolt when the bottom wall is wet - 7c for the full route from here). Move up and rightwards, making a hard rockover to a good hold. More good moves lead to the next break and bit of a rest. Pull over and sort out which holds to use to shimmy rightwards before a final big heave over the top bulge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The best way to climb the route these days is from the ground up the popular and technical new start, just to the right of Indecent. Start behind the tree stump and trend rightwards to the first break above Jehovah Kill. Continue up the original route from the break.
Ron Fawcett 1984. (New start, Mark Pretty 2007).
Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Short King's Queen Lines , Another lifelist?
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