UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
28m.

Rockfax Description
A classic route with great moves and a finish which can spit you off. Climb up the technical and fingery wall, just to the right of Indecent..., to the break and a rest at a flake. (Stick-clip the second or third bolt when the bottom wall is wet - 7c for the full route from here). Move up and rightwards, making a hard rockover to a good hold. More good moves lead to the next break and bit of a rest. Pull over and sort out which holds to use to shimmy rightwards before a final big heave over the top bulge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The best way to climb the route these days is from the ground up the popular and technical new start, just to the right of Indecent. Start behind the tree stump and trend rightwards to the first break above Jehovah Kill. Continue up the original route from the break.

Ron Fawcett 1984. (New start, Mark Pretty 2007).

Ticklists

Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Short King's Queen Lines , Another lifelist? , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible , Sport life , Stuff I wanna do

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tequila Mockingbird

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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