Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).

Rockfax Description
Start up The Green Alternative or Weedkiller to the belay then Rooster Booster (P2 ) to the break. Move left and pull over the bulge leftwards to a junction with Waddage just below the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up Weedkiller or more likely The Green Alternative to the belay then climb Rooster Booster (pitch 2) to the high break. Step left and pull over the bulge moving leftwards on small crimps to join Waddage just below the top.

Mark Pretty 2004.


UK 8a and up , Short King's Queen Lines


User Date Notes
John_Beesley 27 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Someone wanna explain why adding a big old chunk to an 8a doesn’t change the grade? Let’s stop sandbagging pointlessly or people won’t bother with these cool links!
Show beta
βeta: Someone wanna explain why adding a big old chunk to an 8a doesn’t change the grade? Let’s stop sandbagging pointlessly or people won’t bother with these cool links!

Logged Ascents

12 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 3 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rainbow Warrior

Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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