UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
25m.

Rockfax Description
The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near the top of Evolution, gain a pinch after a hideous cross-over move. Continue up the wall above to the lower-off on Chimes... © Rockfax

FA. Steve McClure 1998..

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Hardest routes in Britain , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime

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Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 9c
Mid 9c
Low 9c
High 9b+
Mid 9b+
Low 9b+
High 9b
Mid 9b
Low 9b
High 9a+
Mid 9a+
Low 9a+
High 9a
Mid 9a
Low 9a
High 8c+
Mid 8c+
Low 8c+
High 8c
Mid 8c
Low 8c
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 14
Route of Interest
Finest Pedigree

Grade: 9a+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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