UKC

8m.

Rockfax Description
Short and sharp. Boulder up to the jug then make a desperate move left. Finish more easily up and right to the ledge. © Rockfax

FA. Malcolm Taylor 1989.

Ticklists

UK 8a and up , Sporty Spice

Feedback

User Date Notes
Boy 20 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Like Jim says the broken hold just means that the tall can't now lank through the crux and now have to do the hard move like everyone else. It makes no difference to everyone else
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Like Jim says the broken hold just means that the tall can't now lank through the crux and now have to do the hard move like everyone else. It makes no difference to everyone else
Mick 11 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The main difficulty with this climb is pulling left from the jug. A strong bouldery 7c+/8a climber is going to work out one of the ways to get to the jug, with or without the crimp out left. The left pull from the jug gets easier the taller you are and if you are short the move is much harder. In my opinion this move is the definitely the redpoint crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The main difficulty with this climb is pulling left from the jug. A strong bouldery 7c+/8a climber is going to work out one of the ways to get to the jug, with or without the crimp out left. The left pull from the jug gets easier the taller you are and if you are short the move is much harder. In my opinion this move is the definitely the redpoint crux.

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Bouldered
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Unleashing the Wild Physique

Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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