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15m.

Rockfax Description
A great historic route that still regularly repels attempts. A desperate start (which has got harder over the years) using a poor pocket gains the groove and a knee-bar rest. Swing out right, then pull up and onto the technical slab to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FFA. Jerry Moffatt 1984. A free version of the The Prow Direct Start which was way ahead of its time in terms of difficulty. FA. Bob Dearman, M.White 1965..

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Classic Hard Peak Limestone, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, Peak limestone north graded list - sport, UK 8a and up, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, Ben and Jerry

Feedback

User Date Notes
teddy 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed this is a font 7c (V9) into a french 7c route. Don't think 8b as the start move is very hard but doable once wired. The right heel toe cam under the roof helps massively once in just the right place as does a bit of persistence! Realistically 8a+ and too classic to be a soft touch at the grade above.
 
Show beta
βeta: Agreed this is a font 7c (V9) into a french 7c route. Don't think 8b as the start move is very hard but doable once wired. The right heel toe cam under the roof helps massively once in just the right place as does a bit of persistence! Realistically 8a+ and too classic to be a soft touch at the grade above.
RupertD 20 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: True. How about, 'one font 7c move into a 7c route, does not make it into an 8b'?
 
Show beta
βeta: True. How about, 'one font 7c move into a 7c route, does not make it into an 8b'?
RupertD 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Right, before the guide comes out, no way is this 8b. One pocket strength-specific move into a 7c does not an 8b make.
 
Show beta
βeta: Right, before the guide comes out, no way is this 8b. One pocket strength-specific move into a 7c does not an 8b make.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ally Smith 5 Jul Lead dog Felt living end. Even the top "7c" section felt nails. There are easier 8c's in Yorkshire.
with Gareth
Felt living end. Even the top "7c" section felt nails. There are easier 8c's in Yorkshire.
with Gareth
nathanlee 29 Jun Lead RP Ace history, really built it up and never thought of it trying it before. Top slab is brilliant, felt very trad first time up. Fell getting in to the groove on Saturday, then twice today! Shambles. Did next go after working out a better way. Odd really, felt easier than chimes roof...
with goli
Ace history, really built it up and never thought of it trying it before. Top slab is brilliant, felt very trad first time up. Fell getting in to the groove on Saturday, then twice today! Shambles. Did next go after working out a better way. Odd really, felt easier than chimes roof...
with goli
Hidden ?? -
PeterDawson 30 Jun, 2019 Lead RP
Hidden 19 May, 2019 -
Hidden 3 Nov, 2018 Lead RP
Edd Mowbray 31 Oct, 2018 Lead RP Wicked! loads of cool moves on this one!
Wicked! loads of cool moves on this one!
Robcook100 20 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf
Hidden 28 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
Jack Geldard ??, 2015 -
Ethan 4 Jul, 2013 Lead
with George
with George
Apharri 19 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
with Simon Lee
with Simon Lee
bigie bob 13 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??, 2010 Lead
jondude 13 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
with Pete Clark
with Pete Clark
Hidden 14 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
hutch 13 May, 2009 Lead RP
Simon Davis ??, 2008 Lead RP
with Tom & Rae
with Tom & Rae
Boy ??, 2007 -
Hidden ? Jul, 2002 Lead RP
kristian 24 Jun, 2000 Lead RP 2 ascents in 5 minutes using the jump method.
with dave Skoczylas
2 ascents in 5 minutes using the jump method.
with dave Skoczylas
34 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Gran Techo

Grade: 8b ***
(Chee Dale Lower)