UKC

15m.

Rockfax Description
A great historic route that still regularly repels attempts. A desperate start (which has got harder over the years) using a poor pocket gains the groove and a knee-bar rest. Swing out right, then pull up and onto the technical slab to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FFA. Jerry Moffatt 1984. A free version of the The Prow Direct Start which was way ahead of its time in terms of difficulty. FA. Bob Dearman, M.White 1965..

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Classic Hard Peak Limestone, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, Peak limestone north graded list - sport, UK 8a and up, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, Ben and Jerry

Feedback

User Date Notes
teddy 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed this is a font 7c (V9) into a french 7c route. Don't think 8b as the start move is very hard but doable once wired. The right heel toe cam under the roof helps massively once in just the right place as does a bit of persistence! Realistically 8a+ and too classic to be a soft touch at the grade above.
Show beta
βeta: Agreed this is a font 7c (V9) into a french 7c route. Don't think 8b as the start move is very hard but doable once wired. The right heel toe cam under the roof helps massively once in just the right place as does a bit of persistence! Realistically 8a+ and too classic to be a soft touch at the grade above.
RupertD 20 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: True. How about, 'one font 7c move into a 7c route, does not make it into an 8b'?
Show beta
βeta: True. How about, 'one font 7c move into a 7c route, does not make it into an 8b'?
RupertD 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Right, before the guide comes out, no way is this 8b. One pocket strength-specific move into a 7c does not an 8b make.
Show beta
βeta: Right, before the guide comes out, no way is this 8b. One pocket strength-specific move into a 7c does not an 8b make.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Zeke the Freak

Grade: 8b ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)
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