UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
50m.

Rockfax Description
One of the historic landmark routes of the Peak. The way to climb it these days is in one giant pitch from the ground for an amazing 8a tick, although it is still a good 7c+ tick done in one pitch to the belay of Body Machine. Climb up the Body Machine start, then traverse rightwards past a belay and up the technical wall to a big hole in the break. Move slightly right again and then straight up the tufa-line via superb moves. Enter the massive groove-line above and get a sneaky rest at the Body Machine belay. Finally climb up to the giant roof and exit (via very powerful moves) to a belay up and right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THE way to climb the route these days in one awesome pitch from the ground! Can easily be climbed on one rope. Start up the Body Machine direct start and shares a new belay with the Crucifixion.

Ron Fawcett 1982. (In one pitch, Mark Pretty 2003).

Ticklists

Classic Hard Peak Limestone , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Classic UK F7s , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Lime Time , Another lifelist? , Sport life

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Ogre

Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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