UKC Logbook - 'Tin Of'

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.
Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).

Last update: 19/12/2022

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22m.

Rockfax Description
A popular route with the grade causing some debate - some think easier than Sardine, others harder. Follow Sardine to where it traverses back right. Climb the depression above on small holds to a rest. Step left and make some quick pulls up the slab to reach the upper break. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Lewis 1988. This route straightened out several hybrids including a Fawcett variation on Sardine, and Bullit the Blue Sky..

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
spikeyhelen	24 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: The side pulls below the final jug/break (and that entire section) are super hollow and seem like they’ll go. If this gets high traffic - particularly below the climb on the ground - could someone give this a bit of sika? There are some very hefty bits of rock involved.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The side pulls below the final jug/break (and that entire section) are super hollow and seem like they’ll go. If this gets high traffic - particularly below the climb on the ground - could someone give this a bit of sika? There are some very hefty bits of rock involved.
James Smith	2 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: LH resting jug after the crux is flexing quite a lot. It now has a chalk \'x\' on it - belayers beware!
Show beta βeta: LH resting jug after the crux is flexing quite a lot. It now has a chalk 'x' on it - belayers beware!
duncan b	11 Jan, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Significantly harder than Sardine. I agree with Lucy E's view that the grades of Sardine and Tin Of should be swapped.
Show beta βeta: Significantly harder than Sardine. I agree with Lucy E's view that the grades of Sardine and Tin Of should be swapped.
daimon	30 Oct, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Done this a few times. I admit it took me longer to get than Sardine. I think it is a bench mark 7b. But most people at the Tor are climbing way past this grade so would say it felt easy. But they just don't know there own strength. I would say sardine is 7b too, but you have to find those holds. 7b+ if flashed.
Show beta βeta: Done this a few times. I admit it took me longer to get than Sardine. I think it is a bench mark 7b. But most people at the Tor are climbing way past this grade so would say it felt easy. But they just don't know there own strength. I would say sardine is 7b too, but you have to find those holds. 7b+ if flashed.
Sam Ring	5 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Ah, that makes sense, thanks.
Show beta βeta: Ah, that makes sense, thanks.
teddy	26 May, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Bear in mind Sam that about 2 years ago the mono pocket on the crux on Tin of became bigger due to a bit of rock falling out of it and is now a 2 finger one so the route in now easier.
Show beta βeta: Bear in mind Sam that about 2 years ago the mono pocket on the crux on Tin of became bigger due to a bit of rock falling out of it and is now a 2 finger one so the route in now easier.
Sam Ring	26 May, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Its 7b & probably not hard at that, the pocket move is fine if you are good on pockets and the rest sustained but straight forward moves if you use your feet. Fell off at last clip on flash because I'm crap. Ace route!
Show beta βeta: Its 7b & probably not hard at that, the pocket move is fine if you are good on pockets and the rest sustained but straight forward moves if you use your feet. Fell off at last clip on flash because I'm crap. Ace route!
UKB Shark	20 Aug, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Hope you are going to abide by consensus/democracy Alan and not exercise editorial dictatorship. For what it is worth I find it to be 7B+ as I dont have steely finger strength to feel comfortable on that slanting hold on the crux which incidently feels a lot harder in sunny/greasy conditions.
Show beta βeta: Hope you are going to abide by consensus/democracy Alan and not exercise editorial dictatorship. For what it is worth I find it to be 7B+ as I dont have steely finger strength to feel comfortable on that slanting hold on the crux which incidently feels a lot harder in sunny/greasy conditions.
craig d	21 Jun, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Sardine is miles easier to warm up on than Tin of. The clip in the groove on Tin of is way harder than any move on either route. The other thing is once you know these routes they are a walk in the park. Even Toadside is an amenable warm up. Finally, No man's land has always been 7a+, and personally I thought 7a was fair. However i did do it 13 years ago and it probably is the only route at Buoux that i found easy!
Show beta βeta: Sardine is miles easier to warm up on than Tin of. The clip in the groove on Tin of is way harder than any move on either route. The other thing is once you know these routes they are a walk in the park. Even Toadside is an amenable warm up. Finally, No man's land has always been 7a+, and personally I thought 7a was fair. However i did do it 13 years ago and it probably is the only route at Buoux that i found easy!
Ian Patterson	25 Jun, 2002	Show βeta βeta: I've got to agree with Alan, I can't see any way that this could be 7b+. A few years ago I spent a wet day playing on the Tin Of start / Sardine finish (first time ever at the the crag) I then returned a couple of years later and climbed Tin Of first go putting the quicks in - much as I'd like to believe it I don't climb 7b+ that easily. I would say low end 7b (particularly at peak grades).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I've got to agree with Alan, I can't see any way that this could be 7b+. A few years ago I spent a wet day playing on the Tin Of start / Sardine finish (first time ever at the the crag) I then returned a couple of years later and climbed Tin Of first go putting the quicks in - much as I'd like to believe it I don't climb 7b+ that easily. I would say low end 7b (particularly at peak grades).
stone elworthy	10 Jun, 2002	Show βeta βeta: wouldn't doing the start of tinof and the top of sardine be the easiest way up the wall?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: wouldn't doing the start of tinof and the top of sardine be the easiest way up the wall?
Alan James - UKC and UKH	29 May, 2002	Show βeta βeta: I agree. I can't understand why people are voting for 7b+ for this. It is way easier than Sardine with significantly less climbing, a good rest and a vertical section at the finish. I suspect multiple voting by one person so ignore the 7b+ vote. To be honest, it is only just 7b.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I agree. I can't understand why people are voting for 7b+ for this. It is way easier than Sardine with significantly less climbing, a good rest and a vertical section at the finish. I suspect multiple voting by one person so ignore the 7b+ vote. To be honest, it is only just 7b.
teddy	29 May, 2002	Show βeta βeta: There is no way this is 7b+! It has always been easier than Sardine plus Indecent is desparate by comparison. There is only one hard move on Tin of (the mono move) and the rest is just cruising up 5b/5c territory with the odd 6a move.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is no way this is 7b+! It has always been easier than Sardine plus Indecent is desparate by comparison. There is only one hard move on Tin of (the mono move) and the rest is just cruising up 5b/5c territory with the odd 6a move.