UKC

Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

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Alan James on the finishing crack of Mealy Bugs (VS) at Ravensdale. © Nick Brown

Crag features

An excellent venue for low/middle grade traditional climbing with multi-pitch routes up to 46m long on the main buttress. Good quality rock with great exposure and fine views. Never too busy, but classic routes e.g. Gymnic (VS 4c) and Medusa (VS 4b,4b) are polished. Other great outings include Delusor (VS 4c), Via Vita (E1 5b) and Conclusor (HVS 4c, 5a). Few hard routes, but Wilt (E5 6b) is well-named, well-protected and tricky to flash. Starting to get overgrown, even on the most popular routes.

************* IMPORTANT ACCESS NOTE ***************
Nesting birds often mean temporary bans on parts of the crag early in the year and occasionally at other times. Please look out for restriction notices.

Current status (as of 01/03/19)

"In addition to nesting ravens, peregrines have been observed prospecting for a nest site on Ravensdale crag. Please avoid the whole crag whilst we establish if they choose to nest and where.

Once nesting is confirmed or not for the peregrines, a more detailed restriction covering the species nesting on the crag will be posted"



Further information on the BMC Regional Access using the link at the bottom of the page.

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Approach notes

Situated in Cressbrook Dale. Limited parking is available below the crag close to Ravensdale Cottages (SK 173737). Respect privacy please. A concessionary footpath leads up to the main buttress.
Often bird-banned early in the year and occasionally at other times too. Look for the warning notices.

Restricted Access

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 14 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update July 2022 - Peregrines are still present though the nest site location has not been identified so Natural England have extended the whole crag restriction until 14th July. Please also check for further updates after this date.

 

Raven are nesting on the crag as ususal in 2022 and a pair of peregrine have also been seen near the crag. Natural England have applied a restriction to the whole crag as no nest location for the peregrines has been identified yet. If/when the location on the crag is confirmed, the intention is to reduce the extent of the restriction only to the area of crag being used by the birds. This page will be updated as and when more information becomes available.

The ab point above Tria (old thick rope to a maillon, and backed up with some thinner cord through the maillon) was looking quite old (04/08/07). I had of course forgotten to bring any serious ab tat replacement material, but untied my quite new prussik loop and tied that around the tree and through the maillon as well, so the red cord through the maillon as a back up is new as of August 2020.
TobyA - 05/Aug/20
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Climbs at this crag

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