Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

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Alan James on the finishing crack of Mealy Bugs (VS) at Ravensdale. © Nick Brown

Crag features

An excellent venue for low/middle grade traditional climbing with multi-pitch routes up to 46m long on the main buttress. Good quality rock with great exposure and fine views. Never too busy, but classic routes e.g. Gymnic (VS 4c) and Medusa (VS 4b,4b) are polished. Other great outings include Delusor (VS 4c), Via Vita (E1 5b) and Conclusor (HVS 4c, 5a). Few hard routes, but Wilt (E5 6b) is well-named, well-protected and tricky to flash. Starting to get overgrown, even on the most popular routes.

************* IMPORTANT ACCESS NOTE ***************
Nesting birds often mean temporary bans on parts of the crag early in the year and occasionally at other times. Please look out for restriction notices.

Current status (as of 01/03/19)

"In addition to nesting ravens, peregrines have been observed prospecting for a nest site on Ravensdale crag. Please avoid the whole crag whilst we establish if they choose to nest and where.

Once nesting is confirmed or not for the peregrines, a more detailed restriction covering the species nesting on the crag will be posted"

Further information on the BMC Regional Access using the link at the bottom of the page.


Approach notes

Situated in Cressbrook Dale. Limited parking is available below the crag close to Ravensdale Cottages (SK 173737). Respect privacy please. A concessionary footpath leads up to the main buttress.
Often bird-banned early in the year and occasionally at other times too. Look for the warning notices.

Restricted Access

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

March 2023 - the Ravens are nesting on the main buttress this year, and appear to have been delayed somewhat (possibly by the weather), so the restriction may run longer than usual for Ravens. The restriction therefore is currently in place as of 25th March for all routes rightwards from "Cracked Edge" i.e. all of "The Bay" and the main "Raven Buttress" areas. Kestrels also look like they may nest in this area.

The Peregrines have been seen in the area but no nest site has been identified yet so please check back for further updates.

The ab point above Tria (old thick rope to a maillon, and backed up with some thinner cord through the maillon) was looking quite old (04/08/07). I had of course forgotten to bring any serious ab tat replacement material, but untied my quite new prussik loop and tied that around the tree and through the maillon as well, so the red cord through the maillon as a back up is new as of August 2020.
TobyA - 05/Aug/20
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Climbs at this crag

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